Motormouth mare
26 January 2015 22:41Iris has always been quite busy in her mouth, tending to chomp at the bit, especially when she is anxious. I noticed it particularly when we were working on riding out the last few times and I realised that it wasn't just a manifestation of anxiety, there seemed to be a stereotypical element to it as well. So I set down and asked her not to. Just doing some gentle work on the ground, holding the bit rings and asking her to follow a feel without releasing until she had quit munching at the bit and was just holding it.
Two sessions later she seems to be able to just carry the bit most of the time. I'm ever so pleased with her but I can't help but feel a bit of a chump for not spotting it sooner.
Two sessions later she seems to be able to just carry the bit most of the time. I'm ever so pleased with her but I can't help but feel a bit of a chump for not spotting it sooner.
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Date: 26 Jan 2015 23:07 (UTC)no subject
Date: 26 Jan 2015 23:15 (UTC)no subject
Date: 26 Jan 2015 23:21 (UTC)no subject
Date: 26 Jan 2015 23:23 (UTC)Also a good idea to do this when introducing a solid bit, no reins, without the typing of reins to the saddle--and obviously all this is supervised!
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Date: 27 Jan 2015 07:20 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 08:59 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 09:00 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 13:38 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 15:45 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 15:59 (UTC)Another thing about giving to the bit rings. I'm realizing that there's a lot of people who don't know about 4-H and showmanship in the competitive scene. Showmanship does a lot of foot control. It's halter competition on a pattern, with all the points going to the handler. Horses have to stand square consistently (or slightly stretched for some breeds). The handler has to be able to cue forehand turns and haunches turns very precisely.as well as sidepass. I think one reason I get so bemused by why so many people consider natural horsemanship groundwork to be a big revelation is because some much of it is similar to what good, consistent, Showmanship training is. I started with that type of work because my first horse was a yearling Shetland.
I enter Showmanship at every show we attend, simply because it's a good way to accustom Mocha to the arena and besides, I kind of like that stuff. But I haven't gotten serious about certain aspects of it until I went to a Wallowa County show last summer and saw a canny old show and rodeo gelding who just automatically took the squaring up position without cueing outside of the arena when his handler stopped to talk to someone. I thought to myself that I wanted Mocha to do that (and it was something we could work on during this past year of rehab and white line disease management). It's been a challenge because horses don't normally want to stand square all the time, but now I'm thinking it's also good for Mocha's bad hip (old hip injury coming back to haunt us on occasion).
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Date: 27 Jan 2015 22:02 (UTC)I would love to get to a point where I had a horse who was ready to be straight up in the bridle - I wonder whether that was more common in the south-western tradition because until they horse had a bridle bit they would have typically have been worked in a hackamore rather than experiencing a bit previously.
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Date: 27 Jan 2015 22:04 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 23:03 (UTC)The spade bit is not a Southwestern tradition but a buckaroo/California tradition. Think Eastern Oregon/Idaho/Western Montana/Northern Nevada/Northern California. Southwestern riders used grazing bits. The tradition has spread a little bit but the riding style and the spade training really is a Great Basin/California thing. Details, details.
Mike Bridges is a Northern California horseman who teaches a five year progression program for horses going into the spade bit. He also has some really nice videos out there. I recommend his stuff. Benny Guitron also has good stuff.
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Date: 27 Jan 2015 23:04 (UTC)no subject
Date: 27 Jan 2015 23:09 (UTC)The best way to tie up a horse like a working horse is to get a stout post or tree, tie about five feet up, then park the horse while working other horses. I'm a firm fan of the patience post. You can also work on it in cross ties if you're doing things around the barn (no twine! Twine is right out! If she only ties with twine, then patience post first).
Basically, tieing her to something solid and then letting her fret, then self-soothe and learn to relax can be done while you're working on chores, schooling another horse, or something like that. You just want to be around in case, but don't rescue her if she's just being fretful and fidgety.
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Date: 28 Jan 2015 08:43 (UTC)no subject
Date: 28 Jan 2015 08:51 (UTC)My sources may well be incorrect- I'm a lot further from this stuff than you are of course - but it does make sense that they would use fewer rather than more steps.
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Date: 28 Jan 2015 15:17 (UTC)no subject
Date: 28 Jan 2015 15:24 (UTC)